Thursday 18 May 2023

Scotland - Day 4

I decided to have a break from not catching fish today and went for a walk instead - I did the three miles from Fortingall to where I'm staying at Chesthill. 

The first point of interest was this standing stone.
It's called the Carn na Marbh (cairn of the dead) and tradition has it that it marks the grave of victims of the Black Death epidemic in the 14t century. The legend goes that they were all buried by a single old woman, the sole survivor. I couldn't get any closer as it stands on a raised area in the middle of a freshly tilled field. 

There are also a few stone circles and a chambered barrow in and around the village and they date to Neolithic times.



I could, however, have a look at these amazing thatched cottages. They were designed by a young architect called James Marjoribanks MacLaren (1853-1890) at the behest of local laird, Sir Donald Currie. The concept was to create an 'ideal' village in a faux mediaeval style with Arts and Crafts elements such as harling, corbeling and crow-stepped gables. Tragically, MacLaren died aged only 37 but his work was continued by his colleagues William Dunn and Robert Watson and the Fortingall project would go on to inspire Charles Rennie MacIntosh.
As you leave the village and cross over the river bridge you pass by some rather grand houses. A particular local practice is using curiously-shaped rocks as gatepost toppers. These have all been sculpted by the action of running water in the River Lyon.
From there on in the walk became a little wilder and civilisation was left far behind. Glen Lyon is the longest glen in Scotland and the high hills on both sides block any phone signal. The river runs through the middle with steep wooded banks on each side. There are huge moss-covered boulders, plenty of sycamore, beech, birch and evergreen trees. There are cuckoos everywhere, which was lovely to hear as we don't hear them where I live. Plus I saw buzzards, ravens, plenty of hares and sheep, and the odd red squirrel and Highland 'coo'.











One last treat before getting home was walking out onto the suspension bridge over the river. It all felt a bit Indiana Jones as it did bounce and sway somewhat. But the views were great and the delicious coconut-like smell coming off the gorse flowers below made it a truly multi-sensory experience.


Here are videos of the walk:




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